Just another day at Pasquales

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Northward We Go


Me and my usual inability to smile during photographs
            Five of us packed into the van and headed out of Puerto Escondido an hour before the sun rose. Jon and Allie, a friendly Australian couple, asked if they could come along as we headed back to Zihuatanejo. It’s quite a feat cramming five people’s surfboards and belongings into the van in a way that will still leave some room to sit. I must say that although driving in Mexico can be hazardous, exhausting and stressful, I would still rather drive than cram into the back of a windowless cargo can for a 450 mile drive through winding, pothole laden roads.
            We stayed in Zihuatanejo for Dia de los Muertos, which proved to be a pretty cool experience. I decided not to take photographs of people honoring their departed family members at the cemetery out of respect. Entire families come out to adorn the graves of their deceased family members with flowers, wreaths and candles. It was interesting to see how a different culture deals with death. I expected the whole thing to be rather somber and depressing but in all actuality it was quite the opposite with family members conversing, telling stories and enjoying themselves. I got to thinking that it’s probably better that way. When I’m six feet under I don’t want a bunch of people coming around moping and feeling sorry, I’d rather they through a big fat party on my grave and piss off all my subterranean neighbors.
Half a road, at best
            The next day we headed to Saladita, one of the longest left-hand points in Mexico. The waves were pretty small and more suited for a longboard. We stayed at my Neighbor Steve’s place, which was totally a treat. His neighbor is Corky Carroll who was a world champion surfer back in the 70’s. Corky was really helpful and gave us the low down on how to get to an isolated break known as “The Ranch.” We went that afternoon and checked it out after driving for about half an hour on a one-lane dirt road. We got there to find the break totally empty, with long lefts breaking along a cobblestone reef that seems to go on forever.
            We left Saladita to return to Pasquales and surf there for a few days. Edgar, the owner of the surf camp greeted us immediately and even managed to remember my name after six weeks, he’s a real hospitable gent. I guess I remembered his name too, although it helps that it’s written on the sign when you enter. The waves were good, as is the usual at Pasquales. Edgar let us know that there was a surf contest over the weekend which generally means no fun for non competitors so I decided to continue on my journey northward to Sayulita.
Edgar, hard at work as usual
The Church in Tecoman
            Before I left I stopped in the small city of Tecoman. This little gem is situated right in the middle of one of the largest produce centers of Mexico. Much of the economy relies on the apparently thriving lime and coconut business. The city is clean both physically and in its design too with easily navigable streets and a defined town center. The people here are some of the most friendly I’ve met so far in Mexico. They seem to always be happy and smiling, which is understandable considering how prosperous the town seems to be. In the town center there is a beautifully constructed open-air church. A kind older woman saw me taking photos and gave me a little tour of the place just out of the kindness of her heart. I didn’t understand everything she told me but it was obvious she felt proud of her town and the beautiful church that unifies this little slice of paradise. If you get the chance please do go explore this rich little town and mingle with its thriving and welcoming people, you wont be disappointed.